Monocle 24

84th & 3rd Review of Hudson Meats Mosman

Vintage tiles discovered at Mosman store

Mosman store OPENS

Diana in the Daily Telegraph

Diana wins GOLD at Worldskills Australia Regionals

Hudson Meats to Open a Mosman

Hudson Meats on Food in Focus

New Mosman Store

Hudson Meats talks NSW Beef Labelling !

Neil Perry talks Dry Ageing

Lane Cove Store Opens

Cammeray Store Opens

Hudson Meats awarded Best Butcher 2008 !

Neil Perry talks Dry Ageing< back to news

Why it's all about timing and technique when it comes to creating that perfect melt-in-the-mouth moment.

Dry-ageing is the only way to age beef and improve flavour and texture, in my opinion. The process of ageing in cryovac, or so-called wet-ageing, simply preserves the meat – there is no discernable improvement in flavour. Great beef that is to be simply grilled deserves to be dry-aged. I have – through circumstance, trial and error – become something of a world expert on this subject. With 15 tonnes of beef ageing in my three Bar & Grills at any one time, we are committed to dry-ageing and are among a very small handful of people in Australia who offer beef aged up to 80 days. In fact, I recently spoke to other chefs and interested parties in the Spanish city of San Sebastián on that very subject. (See Neil Perry in San Sebastián)

Dry-ageing allows the beef to dry and dehydrate in a controlled environment to improve flavour and tenderness. However, in reality, with long ageing it isn’t so much about tenderness, but texture or mouth feel that is where the real magic is happening.

When I say “controlled”, I mean it. The temperature must be at a constant zero degrees; the humidity must be at 85 per cent; the air flow must be fierce; and you need to have UV lighting. These are the perfect conditions in which to create some of the world’s best beef.

In the first 14-20 days, enzymes that naturally occur in the beef break down the protein and fat strands, making them smaller; this helps with tenderness. They also give off gas as a by-product, which improves flavour. Then they expire and finish their work. What happens next is the key. The beef sits quietly and dehydrates. This has the effect of concentrating the flavours and creating the great taste. It also makes the meat denser, thus giving it a wonderful richness and intensity.

The most important thing with good dry-aged beef is not to overcook it. The meat shouldn’t be cooked at more than medium-rare, and don’t rest it too long: there is little juice in the steak and it will dry out. So there you have it: a steak with amazing flavour and intensity and all it took was 80 days of patience. Oh, and did I say you need to start with amazing beef? So don’t try this at home, but go to butchers who age it for you. Victor Churchill and Hudson Meats are good bets. Check their websites and order up for the best barbecue ever.  

Top of the chops 
Victor Churchill

132 Queen Street, Woollahra.
+61 2 9328 0402.

Hudson Meats
410 Crown Street, Surry Hills.
+61 2 9332 4454.

Stockland Cammeray,
450-476 Miller Street, Cammeray.
+61 2 9954 5900.

Lane Cove Market Square,
24-28 Burns Bay Road, Lane Cove.
+61 2 9427 9000.

Date: 31/03/2011
Article: Qantas The Australian Way April 2011
Rose Bay
T: +61 2 9371 1500
F: +61 2 9371 1544
T: +61 2 9954 5900
F: +61 2 9954 5999
Lane Cove
T: +61 2 9427 9000
F: +61 2 9427 9100
T: +61 2 9960 6666
F: +61 2 9960 6866
T: +61 3 9827 7711
F: +61 3 9827 7714
T: +61 2 9719 8800
F: +61 9719 8658